Tim Mosso's watch collection doesn't grow often, but when it does, he adds watches that he loves - none other. But not every watch will be available forever, so tonight's show sorts the imminent investment watches from those watches that will remain affordable. Rolex, Patek Philippe, and Vacheron Constantin watches feature prominently in tonight's show. Tim outlines the best luxury watches to buy in 2023.
While never popular during its 2005-2014 production run, the Rolex Cellini Prince remains as under appreciated as it is unique. Four versions of the Cellini Prince were produced, but the yellow gold Rolex reference 5440/8 is the most distinctive. The display caseback over caliber 7040 remains a Prince exclusive, and this is the only Rolex watch ever to reach production status with a sapphire display caseback. Rolex designed the dial of the Cellini Prince to echo the decoration of the movement, and the yellow gold variant is the most dramatic combination by far. For good measure, Rolex engraved the case flanks with a sunray motif. Despite its rarity and unique design, the Cellini Prince 5440/8 remains a bargain, and sound examples can be purchased for less than the original retail price of $14,100.
The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 remains a favorite subject of social media and speculative sales, but Tim has no interest in the discontinued sports watch. Instead, his favorite Patek watch is the 5236P inline perpetual calendar. This 41.3mm 2021 model debut builds on the design language of the previous 5235G annual calendar.
However, the platinum 5236P is a perpetual calendar, and it borrows a unique "American calendar" day/date/month format featured on previous Patek Philippe pocket watches. The case of the 5236P is inspired by the vintage 3448 perpetual calendar. Dial side design of this watch includes a gradient blue fade and vertical satin brushed texture. A micro-rotor automatic movement provides 48 hours of power reserve to the perpetual calendar and time display.
Vacheron Constantin is a historic rival to Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe, but its watches often are overlooked for decades longer than those of its two peers. The Vacheron Constantin Malte Perpetual Calendar Chronograph, reference 47112, is a rare gem whose time in the sun is approaching.
This 39mm perpetual calendar includes distinctive flared "Maltese Cross" lugs that impart massive character and brand-distinctive beauty. Launched in 2000, this complicated chronograph was offered in platinum and yellow gold. Both versions include a hinged "hunter" caseback over a Lemania-based manual wind chronograph caliber. The perpetual calendar module is programmed to read the correct day, date, month, and leap year phase until the year 2100. While $50,000 - $60,000 is not "cheap" by any means, it is worth noting that the similarly sized and Lemania powered Patek Philippe 5970 can trade at over six times the price of a Vacheron 47112 in mint condition. And for good measure, the 47112 in platinum is the watch worn by Colin Farrell in the cinematic adaptation of Miami Vice.
All of this plus watch collector wrist shots will be featured in this episode of "Watches Tonight!"
Additional watches discussed in this episode include the Oris Aquis Calibre 400, the Audemars Piguet Star Wheel 25720, the IWC Grande Complication 3770, the IWC Tribute to Pallweber 5050-03, the Girard Perregaux Laureato 42 Eternity Edition, the Breguet Tradition 7027, and the Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra Ultra Light.
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