The 2021 Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Geneve is almost here, and despite the pomp and circumstance, major watch brands and models are missing from the 2021 GPHG awards. Notably, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch, Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41mm, and Patek Philippe 5236P in-line perpetual calendar are absent from the competition. Why are Omega, Rolex, and Patek sitting out the "Oscars of Watchmaking?" Tim has the answers tonight!
For 2021, the Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch received its most significant redesign since 1968. With a new movement, bracelet, dial, and bezel, this Omega Moonwatch is the freshest version of the legendary chronograph since before Apollo XI flew. Still 42mm in stainless steel, the Speedmaster Professional gains a few design elements that reference the vintage Omega 105.012, the first Speedy Pro to be accepted by NASA. Inside the case, the new Omega Moonwatch caliber 3861 provides the first Master Chronometer certified and co-axial movement in a Speedmaster Professional. An antimagnetic Si14 hairspring in silicon, a free-sprung balance, extra power reserve, and a model-first hacking seconds raise the level of quality and content. The Omega Speedmaster Professional reference 310.30.42.50.01.001 has a retail price of $6,300, but Omega has declined to enter this watch in the 2021 GPHG.
The 2021 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41mm is an all-new reference 124300 with an all-new 41mm case size. But the standout feature of the new Oyster Perpetual is its selection of colorful lacquer dials inspired by the 1970s and 1980s Rolex "stella" dials seen on the Day Date models. The new 2021 Oyster Perpetual includes turquoise, red coral, green, and bright yellow Rolex dials plucked straight from the history of watchmaking's most famous brand. A stainless steel Oyster bracelet keeps the newly larger Oyster Perpetual on the wrist. Inside the 100-meter water resistant case, a Rolex caliber 3230 provides 70 hours of power reserve and COSC Swiss chronometer accuracy. The 2021 Rolex Oyster Perpetual 124300 has a retail price of $5,900
Patek Philippe 5236P-001 In Line Perpetual Calendar could have been a contender for the GPHG Aiguille d'Or, but Patek chose not to enter its revolutionary perpetual calendar watch. At 41.3mm in platinum with a satin blue "gradient" dial and a micro-rotor automatic movement, this high complication from Patek should have been entered. The Patek Philippe 5236P-001 has a retail price fo $130,110
All of this plus watch collector wrist shots will be featured in this episode of "Watches Tonight!"
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