Tonight's show highlights the finest dress watches available from Swiss watchmakers, German watchmakers, and even Seiko's Credor ultra luxury brand. While last week focused on sports watches, this episode explores dress watch tourbillons, chronographs, exotic dials, unusual time displays, and even simple two-hand displays. Not every watch needs to dive to 300 meters; tonight is the night for collectors of luxury dress watches!
The Seiko Micro Artist Studio is a center of excellence for Seiko Epson Company watchmaking. Established in 2000, the atelier produces - at most - several dozen examples of the few luxury watch models built under its responsibility. Seiko watches start with simple machines like the Seiko 5 but reach their peak with the Micro Artist Studio's mighty Credor Eichi II GLBT997.
This 39mm platinum or rose gold dress watch features an extravagant fired porcelain dial cooked and painted by hand in the Micro Artist Studio. The Credor Eichi is only 10.3mm thick and powered by a lavishly detailed Seiko Spring Drive caliber 7R14. The extraordinary Seiko Spring Drive technology permits accuracy of one second per day while assuring a 60-hour power reserve. Finishing of the movement is inspired by the traditions of the Swiss Vallee-de-Joux and traditional Japanese craft arts; Philippe Dufour himself was consulted during the setup phase of the Micro Artist Studio.
The 2023 Patek Philippe Calatrava 24-Hour Display Travel Time 5224R represents the return of the Patek Philippe travel time dress watch. Since the demise of the 5134, Patek Philippe collectors have awaited a GMT-style watch that wasn't a Nautilus, Aquanaut, or a multi-complication like the 5326G. The 42mm has the wrist presence of a sports watch, but its graceful case, lugs, and sub-10mm thickness mark it as a dress watch of distinction.
The 2023 Patek Philippe 5224R makes rare use of a 24-hour or "military time" display on a Patek Philippe watch. Both the local time hand and the home time hand move at the speed of 360 degrees per 24-hours, so the two can be superimposed to clean up the dial when desired. Abundant super luminova dial lume ensures easy reading of the 5224R in the dark. In order to maintain dial symmetry and cut clutter, Patek Philippe watchmakers and designers elected to refrain from placing a date or calendar display on the face of this watch.
The Patek Philippe 5224R has a retail price of $57,370.
Additional watches mentioned in this episode include the Haldimann H1 Flying Central Tourbillon, the Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Twin Beat Perpetual Calendar 3200T/002P-B578, Lang & Heyne FRIEDRICH III, A. Lange & Sohne Saxonia Thin Copper Blue 205.086, Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Starwheel 15212NB.OO.A002KB.01, Moritz Grossmann Backpage, and De Bethune DB29 Maxichrono Tourbillon
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