Tim Mosso makes his 2022 debut with his forecast of 2022 Patek Philippe watches, new 2022 Rolex watches, and predictions for new Audemars Piguet, Tudor, and De Bethune watch models. After phasing out its Nautilus 5711 in 2021, Patek Philippe enters 2022 with a potential revival of dress watches. No longer a victim of its own success with the 5711, Patek Philippe now has the flexibility to focus on the traditional men's watches that built its reputation in the era before luxury sport watches.
In 2021, Patek Philippe announced its intention to discontinue the Nautilus 5711 at the year's conclusion. While this didn't include a commitment to cull the entire Nautilus model line, the retirement of its most famous model suggested a future in which the Nautilus collection occupies less prominence in the Patek Philippe watch catalog. While models like the Nautilus 5990, 5726, and 5712 remain in production, they will be forced to share more publicity and emphasis with other Patek Philippe collections such as the Calatrava dress watches and Aquanaut sports watches.
With its green dial Nautilus 5711/1A-014 and turquoise Tiffany dial Nautilus 5711/1A-018, Patek Philippe made 2021 the year of the Nautilus 5711. A fever of speculation and price inflation rose all year long and culminated in the December 2021 sale of a Tiffany blue 5711/1A-018 for $6.5 million by Phillips auctions. The money was raised for a charitable cause, but the sticker was no less shocking. This was, after all, a turquoise-dial variant of a mass-produced watch that normally retails for $34,890.
For 2022, Patek Philippe will shift its emphasis. Consistent with owner and CEO Thierry Stern's desire to avoid one model eclipsing the brand, the new collection likely will feature more dress watches, dress watches offered in stainless steel, and a refocusing on the Patek Philippe Calatrava collection. 2022 marks the 90th anniversary of the original Patek Philippe reference 96, a watch that collector's recognize as the unofficial ancestor of today's Patek Calatrava line. Moreover, the seminal Patek Philippe 96 was the first Patek watch to include a reference number and the first to be designed by a member of the Stern family. Further, 2022 marks 90 years since the Stern brothers Jean and Charles-Henri purchased Patek Philippe out of bankruptcy.
2022 Rolex watches may see dramatic changes -- at least by Rolex standards. The current Rolex Daytona has undergone revisions but no wholesale redesigns since the arrival of the Daytona 116520 in the year 2000. A blue hairspring arrived in 2007; a new clasp debuted in 2009; the ceramic bezel arrived in 2011 on rose gold models and 2016 on the stainless steel Rolex Daytona. Rolex redesigned the core GMT-Master II in 2018, and the Rolex Submariner was all-new for 2021. Is 2022 the year that Rolex redesigns the Cosmograph Daytona?
If a 2022 Rolex Daytona redesign is in the offing, what form would it take? A 41mm case makes sense given the changes to the now 41mm Submariner. References to the history of the Daytona chronograph may include "RCO" (Rolex Cosmograph Oyster) dials or "pump" style pushers as seen on manual-wind Daytona models of the 1960s and 70s. Rolex expanded its Glidelock clasp adjustment beyond the dive watches with the 42mm Yacht Master 226659, so a future version of the Daytona might receive this upgrade - especially if an Oysterflex strap is offered. Finally, Rolex may choose to offer the Oysterflex strap on the platinum and steel models that previously included only bracelets.
All of this plus watch collector wrist shots will be featured in this episode of "Watches Tonight!"
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